Our stay at Honke Bankyu was a deeply relaxing and satisfying experience. I felt as though our journey into the mountains was a trip back in time, to an era of thoughtful hospitality and richness of detail. The setting is sublime, tucked into a river bank overlooking a trickling stream, it was easy to shed the trappings of modern life and relax in the soothing waters of the onsen bath. We soaked in the indoor and outdoor baths on both the men’s and women’s side baths and had a private bath as well, and they all were excellent. The irori kaiseki dinner was another highlight, with various dishes cooked on the open hearth as well as some surprises.